We arrived at the base of the route around 1:30 pm and found, as we expected, that the variation immediately started with two aid pitches. I should point out that from the base of the climb Maren led every single pitch, which is amazing considering that she has only rarely climbed on lead before this (although she has done lots of TRing and seconding). Much of the time we were simul-climbing, but I was never able to actually take the lead because I just don't have the required equipment. It was incredible the way she handled the difficult moves. I talked her through a lot of it, but I doubt if it was really helping. Pitch after pitch she concentrated intensely on the work at hand, counting each breath to block out the pain.
By 8:30 pm we had completed the lower section and were ready to start on the more intense crux section which, from time to time, is actually done free. However, for our ascent of this route, Maren used the controversial epidural to prepare for the crux pitches. I don't want to start a free-climbing vs. aid-climbing flame war here, but I am not convinced that using the epidural constitutes aid climbing. I think the moves at the crux were every bit as difficult with the epidural as they would be without. In fact, I think the crux pitch is seriously underrated on the topo at 11a. Seconding Maren's lead, I have to say it seemed like there were some 12a, or extremely strenuous 11d moves up there. Does anyone know if 11a is an Index rating? They're normally a little on the sandbaggy side.
Shortly before 10 pm our guide re-joined the group. (Up to this point we had been assisted by his assistant guides.) Maren reached the crux at 10:30 pm, and at this point the guide did resort to a couple of quick aid moves, using Black Diamond's latest aid goodie, the Vacuum Extractor.
Just past the crux our party was joined by a new climber by the name of Bryden Matthew Robertson. He weighed in at 6 lbs, 14 oz and was 20 inches long. If we had needed some one to lead a 1/2 inch hand crack he would have been the climber to do it. But there was no such "thin hands" section on this route so, after greetings all around, he was cleaned up and short roped to Maren for the short final section of the climb. Being a new climber he was caught somewhat unprepared for this climb, and needed a little extra attention. Despite nine months of intense training he had apparently tried some kind of fluid-immersion regimen, but did not taper his training long enough before the actual climb.
Maren was past the crux but there was still some serious climbing ahead. Our illustrious guide, Dr. Isbell, spent the next several minutes on some very delicate hooking moves. This aid section does not appear on any of the topos that we saw while planning this climb, but there it was. Once again, I don't want to kick off a flame war, but I must discourage anyone from making an unguided ascent of this route. An accredited guide with substantial experience on this particular climb is absolutely necessary for a safe ascent.
Finally, we were on our way down. A 24 hour summit-to-car time is pretty normal on this climb, but it was already apparent that we would be on the mountain longer than that. In fact, despite being on the summit late Wednesday night we did not complete the descent until Friday afternoon. Our new climber was having a little difficulty with his appetite (possible AMS?), and was put on a liquid diet and monitored closely until he seemed to be eating with a more healthy vigor than he had demonstrated immediately after summiting.
All in all this was an incredible experience. I must say that I am awe struck by Maren's physical abilities. This ain't no sport climb!
It turns out that Bryden's rather odd training regimen also included sleeping
during the day and waking at night in his fluid-immersion chamber. It has
proven difficult to reverse this routine, so Maren and I appear to be part of
some sleep-deprivation experiment. Other than that, we are all doing fine.
Last updated: April 2, 2001